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【Italy・Sardinia】 More Than Just the Sea

A Day of Adventure Among Ancient Stone Ruins and Temples


Author: Eat Well · Feel Well · Live Well Editorial Team

Sardinia

If you are visiting Sardinia, it would be a shame to let the journey end with its beautiful coastline alone.


As you drive inland, the landscape begins to change. The blue sea gradually disappears from view, giving way to dry grasslands, low mountains and roads lined with pine forests. There is little of the glamour usually associated with tourist destinations, but further ahead lie mysterious rock-cut spaces that invite you to step inside, along with ancient stone ruins that have stood for thousands of years.


Our route took us through the area around Esterzili, in south-central Sardinia.

That day, we travelled by rental car through the island’s interior, stopping at archaeological sites scattered across the landscape. Far removed from the scenery of the coast, the journey itself—through dry terrain, rocky outcrops and woodland—felt like the beginning of a small adventure.


After reaching our destination, we left the car behind and entered the ruins on foot. Rather than simply viewing the stone structures from the outside, we slipped through small openings carved into the rock and followed traces of the ancient world with our own steps.

It felt a little like an expedition, and a little like returning to childhood.



What Awaits Inside the Rock?

In one corner of the archaeological site, a small entrance seems to merge almost completely with the ground.


From a distance, it looks like nothing more than a shallow hollow in the rock. But as you move closer, you realise that a space large enough to enter continues inside.

The opening is low, and you have to bend down to make your way through. Almost nothing can be seen from the outside, so until you venture a little further in, its size and shape remain a mystery.


Moving carefully over the uneven ground, you eventually turn around to see the light from the entrance falling across the surface of the rock.

Unlike visiting a carefully arranged museum, here you experience the place through your own movements—ducking, stepping and feeling your way forward. This physical sense of exploration is what makes the site so compelling.


Comfortable trousers and shoes with a good grip are recommended. Wearing something you do not mind getting slightly dirty will allow you to enjoy the experience more freely.



Through the forest to the ancient temple

After exploring the rock chambers, we continued through the trees towards Sa Domu de Orgia.


Along the way, dry open land and green woodland appeared in turn. Even under Sardinia’s intense summer sun, the atmosphere changed as soon as we stepped into the shade, making the walk itself feel pleasantly refreshing.

Sa Domu de Orgia is a megaron-style temple built during the Nuragic period.

What remains today is mainly a series of stone walls, but once you pass through the entrance and walk inside the structure, it feels far larger than it appears in photographs.


Thousands of years ago, people may have gathered here to pray and perform rituals.

Walking among the stones with that thought in mind, the ruins no longer feel like part of a distant history.



You Don’t Need to Know the History to Enjoy It

Visiting archaeological sites may sound like something that requires a deep knowledge of history.


Here, however, the experience matters more than what you already know.

Finding a small entrance. Stepping inside the rock. Walking between ancient stone walls. Emerging from the forest to find ruins suddenly appearing in front of you.

It feels a little like finding a secret hideaway as a child, and even without any historical knowledge, your curiosity naturally begins to grow.

When visiting with family or friends, part of the enjoyment comes from walking together and wondering aloud, “What could this place have been?”



A Different Kind of Day in Sardinia

Spend the morning walking among ancient ruins in the island’s interior, then return to town for lunch. Or continue on towards the coast and watch the sea in the late afternoon.


In Sardinia, ancient archaeological sites and beautiful beaches can easily become part of the same journey.

Travelling inland reveals a side of the island that is harder to see when staying only by the sea—its scale, its long history and the changing character of the land.

This is a place for travellers who want more than a resort stay, who enjoy walking where few people go, and who are interested not only in the scenery, but also in the stories held within the landscape.


For those who prefer that kind of journey, this is a place well worth visiting.




Three Hotels to Stay at in Sardinia

A hotel that reflects the character of its surroundings can make a journey through Sardinia even more memorable.

Will you stay in Cagliari, the island’s southern capital, and spend your time exploring its streets and history? Or will you travel north and slow down beside the sea?

Here are three distinctive hotels to consider, each offering a different way to experience Sardinia.



Palazzo Doglio

A Refined Stay in the Heart of Cagliari


For travellers who want to enjoy Cagliari’s history and culinary culture while also making the most of their time at the hotel, Palazzo Doglio is an excellent choice.

At the centre of the property is The Court, an open-air courtyard built around a fountain and lined with restaurants and bars. More than simply a place to stay, the hotel feels like one of Cagliari’s social gathering spaces—a setting where people come together over food, drinks and conversation.


Osteria del Forte, located within the hotel, serves contemporary interpretations of traditional Italian cuisine. After a day of walking through the city, guests can enjoy an aperitivo in the courtyard before settling in for a leisurely dinner without having to travel elsewhere. The hotel also offers wellness facilities and a fitness centre.


Palazzo Doglio is an elegant choice for an adult stay in Cagliari, combining the pleasures of the city with the comfort of a memorable hotel experience.




Palazzo Tirso Cagliari MGallery

An Urban Resort Overlooking the Harbour and Mediterranean Sea


For travellers who want to stay close to the sea while experiencing the city of Cagliari, Palazzo Tirso Cagliari MGallery is another appealing choice.

Set within a restored 1920s building, the hotel enjoys views of the marina and the Mediterranean. Its historic façade is paired with contemporary interiors, creating a sense of resort-like openness in the heart of the city.


One of its most memorable features is the rooftop, which overlooks the cityscape of Cagliari and the Gulf of Angels. At sunset, guests can enjoy dinner or drinks while watching the colours of the sky and sea gradually change. The hotel also features two restaurants, a L’OCCITANE spa and a rooftop swimming pool.


Spend the morning exploring the city, rest at the spa in the afternoon, and head to the rooftop as evening approaches. It is particularly well suited to travellers who want to combine sightseeing and relaxation without making their itinerary feel rushed.





Aethos Sardinia

Slow Living by the Sea in Northern Sardinia


For travellers who want to leave the city of Cagliari behind and spend their time surrounded by sea and nature, Aethos Sardinia in the north of the island offers a peaceful retreat.


The rooms and suites feature warm tones and natural materials, with open layouts that blur the line between indoors and out. Guests can admire the Mediterranean from a private terrace or spend quiet hours in their suite, enjoying the stay entirely at their own pace.

The hotel embraces a relaxed form of elegance and the unhurried rhythm of life by the sea. At its restaurant, ZAÏA, Mediterranean cuisine is prepared with local ingredients, fresh seafood and Sardinian wines.


Rather than moving from one attraction to the next, this is a place for slowing down—taking in the view, enjoying each meal and allowing even the moments of doing nothing to become part of the journey.





Editor’s Note

Where you choose to stay in Sardinia can completely shape the character of your journey.


At Palazzo Doglio, you can experience the food and social life of Cagliari. At Palazzo Tirso, the city’s historic atmosphere is paired with views across the Mediterranean. At Aethos Sardinia, the focus shifts to the sea, nature and quiet resort time in the north of the island.


Walk among ancient ruins, experience the culture of the city, and end the journey by taking a deep breath beside the sea.

By connecting these different sides of the island rather than focusing on a single attraction, Sardinia becomes far more than a beach destination. It remains in the memory as an island you will want to visit again.

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